The Andean Region: Baños, Riobamba, Ambato & Latacunga

24. – 27. Apr 2019

The Streets of Baños

I arrived in Baños in the evening where I met up with David, a Dutch guy whom I already knew from Uruguay, in the hostel Cordillera de los Andes (clean, cheap single rooms with a great rooftop terrace).

The next day, we went to the giant waterfall Pailon del Diablo having passed several other waterfalls on the way. This one was just amazing! The rocks had the appearance of a giant skull and the water rushed down in one huge single stream. There were two lookouts (one directly in the water, and one with a panoramic view) and several suspension bridges.  What a great day with a super delicious lunch!

In the morning, we took the bus to the famous “Tree House at the End of the World” in order to do some hiking and enjoy the views. Well, that didn’t work out… It was completely cloudy and foggy. 🙁 Thus, we decided to go on to Riobamba. There, we did a stroll through the city center in awe of the colonial houses and churches, had our lunch, and headed back to the terminal to catch the bus to Ambato, where we were able to see some street parades. Our final stop for the day was Latacunga where we stayed in Latacunga Hostel (very nice and affordable rooms) using it as our gateway to Quilotoa.

The Quilotoa Loop & the Cotopaxi Volcano

27. – 29. Apr 2019

Early in the morning, we arrived at the Quilotoa crater – a stunning view! We went all the way downhill to the lake and back up – competing with the horses – and then halfway around the crater in order to make it to Chugchilán for the night. On the way, we passed many stunning viewpoints, experienced sunshine, rain, and fog within just a couple of hours, and hiked through a stunning canyon. Finally having arrived at our destination, we stayed at El Vaquero where we were provided with hot tea, a nice room, delicious dinner and breakfast in between two long days of trekking. So the next day, we felt reinvigorated and went on – through canyons and across hills, over sticks and stones, along the river and across lawns and corn fields. Another 20+ km later, we arrived in Sigchos where we took the bus in direction of the Cotopaxi.

Near the Cotopaxi National Park, we stayed at Cuscungo Lodge where we were provided with a cozy chimney fire and hot tea before going to bed. The next morning, we went to the park without taking a tour and just went to the lagoon Limpiopungo with an Ecuadorian lady and her kids who gave us a ride. From there, we were able to take a walk in this incredible environment and take a look at the volcanoes Ruminahui and Cotopaxi whenever the clouds cleared a bit. Having been thinking about going up to the first glacier, we decided not to because of the thick fog up there. On the way back, we were lucky and bumped into a German family who gave us a ride back to Latacunga.

Along the Pacific Coast: the Ruta del Sol

30. Apr – 08. May 2019

At the Beach in Manta

Having arrived in Portoviejo with a German family who was so kind to take me with them to the coast, I was a bit stuck when having been told that the last bus to Puerto Lopez had been cancelled. Thus, I jumped on a bus to Manta without further ado and stayed in an apartment there for the night (Tu casa en Manta). The next day, I walked along the harbor and had a nice lunch at the beach before finally going to Puerto Lopez with a short stopover in Montecristi where the Panama hat had been invented a long time ago (A fool who thought it came from Panama! 😉 ).

Montecristi – the origin of the Panama Hat

Having arrived in Puerto Lopez, I decided spontaniously to stay one night in Fragata Hostal which offered me a great deal on a single room. I spent the evening strolling across the town and along the beach. In the morning, I got on a bus to Machalilla National Park where I hiked the 5 km to Los Frailes Beach – the most beautiful beach in the whole country. Having spent the afternoon there, an Ecuadorian couple on their honeymoon offered me a ride to my next destination: Las Tunas Beach. There, I stayed in a really nice hostel directly at the beach. Viejamar had everything one desires for some relaxed days – nice rooms, a swimming pool, palm trees, loads of hammocks, and a delicious breakfast. Chill mode on! 🙂

Having taken a look at the small surfer village Ayampe, I decided to go on to Montañita for the night. This one night led to maaaany more in the world’s best hostel Mamacucha where I met great people. The following days consisted of extreme hammocking, chilling in the social area, great food, surfing lessons, and stunning sunsets at the beach.

The Historic Walled Town of Cuenca & El Cajas National Park

9. – 11. May 2019

Coming from the coast, I had decided to visit Cuenca – a gorgeous city in the higher Andes region. When I arrived there, it was raining – thus, I paid a visit to the Panama Hat Museum after lunch and was promptly discovered as a hat model by the owner himself. After a stroll to take a first glance at the city, I decided to stay in Hotel Wanderlust as the only guest at that time. In the morning, I got to know Débora from Portugal with whom I explored Cuenca the rest of the day. We took part in the free walking tour, stared in awe at the beautiful colonial houses and churches, ate lunch at the market where we met the cutest little girl named Samanta, strolled along the river, and visited the archeological museum surrounded by lamas and birds.

Early the next morning, I walked to the terminal in order to take the bus to El Cajas National Park. What a stunning landscape! 🙂 I did two hiking trails: one around the lagoon and and the other one up a mountain where I met some other people whom I completed the hike with before going back to Guayaquil…

Port City Guayaquil & the Fincas Around

11. – 19. May 2019

That’s the city of which most travelers say that it’s not worth going or staying because there is nothing to see or do and it’s too dangerous. Thus, most people just use it as their gateway to the Galapagos Islands. Actually, it is pretty nice there. There are various places to go to such as the Malecon 2000, a boardwalk near the harbor, and the Santa Ana hill with its colorful old houses and the cute little lighthouse from where you have an amazing view over the city, especially during sunset. Thank you, Fabrice for showing me that your (temporary) hometown is not that bad! 😉

And there is also the Historic Park in the rich neighborhood of Samborondon where you can walk through tropical forest, watch typical animals and birds from this region, and get to know colonial style houses and traditions. This park is really worth a visit – no matter if you like Guayaquil or not. 😉

Furthermore, Fabrice took me with him to work at two cocoa and banana farms where he monitors the processes and makes sure everything is conform with the certification. It was great to see these plants and get to know how they are processed – partly organic.

Bógota & the Stunning Salt Cathedral of Zipaquirá

16. – 18. Mar 2019

Having arrived in Bógota at around midnight, I was shocked that my hostel bed had gotten cancelled in the middle of the night (Better stay away from Casa Quinta Hostel!). Thus, I decided to stay at the airport until the early morning, and then took the bus to the (for the next day) booked Mola Hostel. They kindly gave me breakfast and let me stay in the bed already at 7am. After finally having slept a couple of hours, I took part in the Street Art Walking Tour in Candelaria. It was a great one and afterwards I went with two other German trvelers to the Botero Museum – Fernando Botero is a famous Colombian artist known for his paintings and sculptures of inflated human and animal shapes.

In the morning, I did another walking tour, this time in the city center featuring the cathedral, the theater, and other important places and buildings. Afterwards, I went to the Gold Museum (Free entrance on Sundays!) and strolled around the streets, which are blocked for cars on Sundays making way for streets vendors, artists etc. One of the highlights of the day was the view from Monserrate hill during sunset and at nighttime.

The next day, I went with Olga, another German girl, to Zipaquirá in order to stare in awe at the high ceilings, the chandeliers, the huge crosses, and the amazing carvings in the Salt Cathedral far deep down in a mine. That was truly an unforgettable experience (but also the lunch menu for 1,69 EUR). Really worth seeing!

Afterwards, I took an Uber Pool to the bus terminal and from there a bus to Armenia – the gateway to Salento in the formidable Coffee Region.

Zona Cafeterra: Salento & Valle del Cocora

19. – 20. Mar 2019

The first couple of hours in Salento were spent in the hammock at Ecohostel Las Camelias before I was granted access to my luxurious one-man tent featuring bed, chair, and even electricity. After the pouring rain had finally stopped, I met up with Luke from France in order to go on a coffee tour at one of the farms. The guide was very funny and smart, making it an interesting afternoon (I even got sweet Panela tea instead of coffee) before falling asleep pretty early in my comfy tent…

The next day, it was time to discover the Cocora Valley with the world’s highest palm trees (up to 60m). Having crossed many suspension bridges while making our way through the jungle, Luke and I met four German guys at the hummingbird hut with whom we continued the hike to the palm grove. A breathtaking sight!

That night, I took the last bus to Pereira in order to catch the night bus to Medellin.

Colorful Medellín & Guatapé

21. – 23. Mar 2019

Having arrived very early in the morning at the bus terminal of Medellin, I checked in at Experience B&B Estadio (very cheap but brand new hostel in Laureles) waiting for Anika to arrive from the airport. We started our joint adventure in Colombia with a great walking tour through Comuna 13 – a former ghetto and dangerous drug district but now a hub for street art and break dancers.

In the afternoon, we took part in a second walking tour though downtown learning about its history while visiting the most important plazas and buildings of Medellín. The next day, we strolled through the botanic garden, walked along huge shopping streets, climbed Nutibara hill up to Pueblo Paisa, and looked at the city from high above in the cable cars.

Having seen the city of Medellín, we decided to take the bus to Guatapé in the morning. In order to get to the top of the big rock there, one has to climb almost 700 steps – but the view is totally worth it! 🙂 And the town of Guatapé itself is not less worth seeing. What a colorful, cute little place! Totally worth stopping by and strolling through the streets with the painted houses.

The next morning, we took a flight to the Caribbean island San Andrés which is situated next to Nicaragua but belongs to Colombia.

The Caribbean Island of San Andrés

24. – 28. Mar 2019

Having arrived at the island, we took the bus to San Luis where our hostel Big V Raizal Home was located. There, we were given a warm welcome by the local family owning the house. Having had a relaxed afternoon at Sound Bay Beach, we had a good night watching the locals sing and dance. I got up early these days, spending the mornings at the beach, watching the sun rise. One day, we walked around the island having a look at the rock formations, the clear blue ocean, palm coves, and some small villages. Having seen the island, we spent the afternoon and the next day at Cocoplum Beach where I walked/swam over to Rocky Cay, a tiny island in the middle of the sea, and an old ship wreck where I snorkeled with a local in order to spot many colorful fish and corals.

For the last two nights, we moved to Palmare House at another part of the island. How crazy it was to get there with a buggy and with the wrong address… But we had many locals helping us with that. Our last day on the island was just spent relaxing at Spratt Bight, the city beach, before we took a flight to the mainland the next morning.

Cartagena de Indias – the Heroic City

28. – 30. Mar 2019

Having arrived in Cartagena, we took the bus to the city center where Dora Hostel was located. Feeling a bit exhausted because of the stressful check-in for the flight (we tied both backpacks together to count as one and the airline staff was VERY strict and annoying), we chilled in the hammock for a bit before taking part in a free walking tour through the old town.

That night, we discovered this amazing city in the dark and had some drinks with Maten from Israel whom we had met at the airport earlier.

The next morning, we strolled through the city again before going to Playa Blanca, a nice beach about an hour away, where we got on a boat that took us out in order to swim with glowing plankton in the ocean. What a magical spectacle! 🙂

Having had our favorite hot dogs at plaza de la Trinidad again but no drinks, we were able to get up early the next morning and get on a tour to volcano El Totumo where we took a mud bath in the crater – a truly unique experience and, as it is said, a blast for the skin. Afterwards we felt like 10 years younger. 😉 Then, we went to a nice hotel to get lunch and take a swim in the ocean and the pool. What a great day! It ended in the bus to Santa Marta…